Harding was never a man to be bothered however what others thought
Filed Under : General by admin
Oct.21,2010Harding was never a man to be bothered, however, what others thought. “You do it your way, and I’ll do it mine” was his motto.He was also criticised for attracting media attention – something which was still regarded as slightly distasteful in 1950s climbing, a sport clinging to pre-war “gentlemanly” attitudes towards professionalism. Given that The Nose was plainly visible from the road and about as obvious a US mountain mascot as any, it was inevitable that public interest was going to be aroused, especially when someone larger than life such as Harding was involved. “Harding was a devilish fellow,” thought the Yosemite historian Steve Roper: Looking at his flashing eyes, his wild black hair, his jet black pants, I was fascinated. Other climbers I knew were bespectacled scientists, staid folks who would never have dreamed of wheeling up to a rock with a sports car and a beer and a flashy dame.Harding and an interchangeable team of climbing friends were to pull off the groundbreaking climb after 47 days spread over 18 months. Up until then, the longest US rock climbs had lasted only about five days, and so the climbers’ lengthy sojourn on one of America’s prime tourist attractions did not go unnoticed by the National Park Authorities.
Rangers became increasingly annoyed by crowds of sightseers clogging the roads below the cliff and ordered Harding to finish the climb by Thanksgiving. In early November 1958, the team drilled 28 bolts into the rock to overcome final 100 feet of overhanging summit headwall during an all-night 14-hour burst of manic energy. At 6am Harding pulled over the ledge to a burst of press flashguns and the cheers of friends.It had been an exhausting undertaking, during which Harding had come close to death when one of the threadbare fixed manilla ropes snapped, pitching him on to a ledge a few feet below. “I do recall that El Cap seemed to be in much better condition than I was,” Harding noted laconically after reaching the summit.Today, although The Nose has been freeclimbed (i.e. ascended without the use of artificial aids) within a day it is still an awesomely challenging climb and one of the most coveted ascents among ambitious climbers.
To many, Harding’s breakthrough was as much psychological as physical, and it ushered a new era of “big-wall climbing” which was to galvanise rock climbing throughout the world.Showmanship was an integral part of Harding’s iconoclastically wacky character. Dubbed “Batso” (after the character Ratso Ritso, the diminutive limping misfit in the film Midnight Cowboy), he had a unique style. Unlike many of his beatnik climbing peers, who eschewed regular work to climb full-time, Harding remained a weekender, wedded to his conventional career as a land surveyor. This did not stop his leading the high life of drinking, partying, fast cars and, frankly, some pretty fast women.
Beryl Knauth, a beautiful San Francisco debutante, was one of Harding’s long-term companions whom he jokingly referred to “one of my many formerly fine girlfriends”.The exotic life belied a dutiful son who provided for an elderly mother and bought her a home. Harding had been raised during the great depression which afflicted 1930s California and into an American work ethic which never left him It partly explained his tenacity as a big-wall climber. “Harding’s ability to keep up his determination and drive when others were too lazy to keep up was incredible,” said a fellow Yosemite pioneer, the landscape photographer Galen Rowell. “He had it in spades over them.”But Harding also knew how to play hard and had a mischievous answer for his many critics.